20 September 2006

There was a big black cloud hovering over us this morning and we thought we were going to get our first soaking. Luckily the high winds that are screaming across the fields pushed the low cloud further Northwards and the sun is beginning to struggle through the high cloud - I must get myself a book on clouds.

As we’ve slowly travelled North we’ve found some lovely bays, at Scremerston the waves were rolling in about 4 ft high and the offshore wind was fighting a losing battle trying to blow them back out again. The resulting spectacle was a display of translucent greens and blue surging water all topped with a frothy white fringe, which the wind was bravely throwing back as white spray against the next wave.

We found an 18th century Lime Kiln gradually being claimed by the sea as it undercut the foundations and a World War 2 gun emplacement, but someone had stolen the gun.

We sat and watched a flock of Linnets and Goldfinch feeding on the thistles and on the beach we saw Stonechat and Rock Pipit. Gulls, Lapwing and Oyster Catchers were meandering around with Skylark and Meadow Pipits in the fields.

Driving back to the main road, there was a blur of feathers that shot across the road in front of the windscreen, a Sparrowhawk, followed immediately by a crowd of Jackdaws going in the opposite direction! They had obviously met his sort before.

Berwick upon Tweed is a lovely town and we walked along the defensive walls. The sign on the gate advised no entry after dark and looking over the edge I’m not surprised, it would all too easy to walk off the path, onto a grassy slope and slide gently to a 20 ft vertical drop into the car park. I’m amazed that it hasn’t been fenced off but hope it never is because it will lose some of it’s splendour and intimidating powers.

Our first full sized dragon was in the Museum at The Barracks, one of the first dedicated barracks built for Infantrymen. The dragon was used as part of the display and you entered through the mouth to a mighty roar to come across some ancient porcelain pottery artefacts.

Eyemouth is a small town with a harbour and boat yard. The Gulls were not interested in bread, maybe they get better pickings from the fishing boats, they were certainly gathered around the one unloading it‘s catch. The Grey Seal in the harbour was, for me, the highlight of our short visit.

We moved on to St Abbs Head, an area of cliffs and wild open ground. The walk from the car park to the head is 6 miles, so we followed a single track road that led right up to the lighthouse front gate. There is parking for 3 or 4 cars only.

The views on a clear sunny day would be spectacular from here and I felt like I was standing on top of the world. These lonely bays and spectacular cliffs are certainly the dreams from my childhood and the kind of dragons that I’m searching for. In Spring the sight of the wild flowers will be amazing and the sound from the sea birds nesting on the cliffs overpowering, and this is a must visit again spot.

Our next stop was 100 miles up the road to visit Loch Tay, where we saw our first ever Red Squirrel, it ran across the road and survived, this time. Another little gem to add to my memory bank.

Loch Tay was still and like a mirror when we arrived and it was difficult to tell where loch and sky met. The boats moored in the Loch appeared to be floating in the sky.

We visited the Scottish Crannog Centre where a replica Crannog was built 10 years ago. Crannogs are 2500 years old and they have found the foundations of many in the shallow water around the edge of the loch. They were round and built on Alder stilts. The walls were hurdles woven with Alder and in the winter two of these would be used parallel to each other and the gap filled with wool or bracken or other insulating materials. The first cavity wall insulation.

The roof was very steep and thatched, again probably with bracken. The fireplace was central and the smoke would have risen into the thatch helping to keep it free of beetles and insects and meat could be hung high in the roof space for smoking.

A very interesting couple of hours, and there was also hands on fire lighting, spinning and wood turning.

Tomorrow we’re heading back to the coast to continue our search for those privileged moments that we sometimes dismiss as uninteresting or in our busy working lives do not see.